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How to Install Geopavers

How to Install Geopavers - wikiHow/**/ wikiHow - The How-to Manual That You Can Edit

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Sign Up or Log In or Log In via | Help HomeArticlesCommunityMy Profile Edit Home / Categories / Home and Garden / Home Improvements and Repairs / ConcreteHow to Install Geopavers originated by:BR, Davjohn, Flickety, Eric (see all)

Article pencil Edit Discuss View HistoryTweet Finished geopaver driveway that serves as a fire department access at a dormitory. Finished geopaver driveway that serves as a fire department access at a dormitory.

Geopavers are a practical and durable paving option for driveways and parking areas. They allow stormwater to drain through them rather than running off and contributing to problems in areas with poor drainage. While installing them is simple, it is a labor intensive project. Here is a guide to making the project successful.

edit Steps1Plan your project requirements. If you don't have a set of plans created by a civil engineer, you'll need to design your own project. Consider the following points before you invest your time and money in the project:Soil conditions. Geopavers need a stable subgrade material with at least moderate drainage to be effective and structurally sound.Topography of the location. Geopavers are best suited for fairly level, flat surfaces. Special conditions may require the use of a geotextile fabric to insure the stability of the finished project.Permitting. Local government agencies may have specific permitting and engineering requirements for surface pavements, including geopaver installation.Accessibility. Heavy materials must be installed at the location you choose, so make sure you have a means of handling them safely and effectively.2Select the geopavers you'll use for your project. They come in various sizes and configurations, so contacting potential suppliers will give you ideas of what is available and what is suitable for your project. Always check the manufacturer's installation instructions, if available; this article details a specific product, and other products may have requirements that differ substantially.3Determine the size of the area you'll be paving. Geopavers come in a number of configurations, including the 16 inch by 24 inch (40cm by 60.9cm) pavers shown in the illustrations. Multiplying the width times the length of your project area, then dividing the result by the size of the pavers will yield the approximate number of pavers the project will require. In the example in the photographs, an irregularly shaped area about 75 feet by (average width of) 30 feet (22.8 meters by 9.1 meters) meant about 1800 pavers were required. Also consider the following materials you will need:Subgrade fill. This is the additional soil (or a quantity of soil that needs to be removed, if an excess amount is present) to give you a subgrade that is prepared for installing base.Base material. This is a stable material that gives the finished project the desired structural properties. For heavy duty use, like the fire department access ramp in the illustrations, crushed concrete base material was installed over compacted fill to a depth of 8 inches (20.cm), then packed to a 95 percent density using a plate compactor.Setting sand. Clean concrete sand is placed on the base material at a thickness of about 1 inch (2.cm), to allow the individual pavers to be leveled when they installed.Fill material. Usually, clean sand is used to fill the joints and cells of the pavers, but the engineering requirements for the project in the photos meant filling them with #57 limestone aggregate.4Order the materials from the appropriate suppliers in your area. Do this after you've calculated the quantities, requested prices, and established the exact materials you'll use to meet your specific needs.5Clear the area for the installation. Remove plants, large rocks, and other items which will interfere with installing the pavers. Relocate any underground utilities that may be affected, such as phone and cable television lines and lawn sprinkler pipes and heads.6Grade the subgrade area to a depth of about 12 inches (30.4cm) below the finished elevation of the pavement. This can vary according to the amount of base material you need and the thickness of the geopavers you choose.7Compact the subgrade material and then add the base material, grading it to the elevation your project requires. Compact the base material with a plate compactor (or even a vibratory roller, for large projects), then recheck the grade.8Grading the sand setting bed with a landscape rake. Grading the sand setting bed with a landscape rake.Install the setting bed of graded, clean concrete sand. This material should be approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) thick, and must be leveled and compacted so that the pavers will set flatly on it. Using an asphalt rake (or landscape rake) makes leveling the sand easier. If you don't have an experienced eye for leveling the material, use a straightedge and screed the sand flat.9Starting a row of pavers at the edge of a sidewalk. Starting a row of pavers at the edge of a sidewalk.Set a paver on the edge of the area where your layout begins, and ease it into place. Square it up, using a stringline if no appurtenance is located to that location for you to abut to.10Preparing to set the next paver in the row. Preparing to set the next paver in the row.Tap the paver with a heavy rubber mallet to set it in the sand, then place the next paver on its edge adjacent to the first. Lay it down the same way, making sure it is aligned with and flush to the first paver. Make sure the joint between the two pavers is kept tight, and continue laying pavers along the edge until you come to the end of the pavement area.11Continuing to lay the pavers, making sure the joints of the edges stay tight. Continuing to lay the pavers, making sure the joints of the edges stay tight.Begin the next row of pavers. Proceed in the same way followed in the previous step, keeping the side joints tight, and the top of the pavers level.12Cutting a paver with a drycut diamond blade on a demolition saw Cutting a paver with a drycut diamond blade on a demolition sawCut any pavers that do not fit correctly, so the individual lines of pavers remain true. Geopavers may vary in shape and size significantly depending on the manufacturer, and these differences may result in accumulative gain in individual rows of pavers if not addressed as they're installed.Wear a respirator to protect you from being contaminated by the paver dust.13Notice the edge is jagged along this radius, placing a concrete toe curb here would look much better. Notice the edge is jagged along this radius, placing a concrete toe curb here would look much better.Cut any pavers along the edges if they don't accurately fit the footprint of your paving project, or if radius edges or other out-of square shapes are used.14Inspect the levelness and trueness of the pavers when you've finished laying them. Tap down any pavers that aren't flush to the adjacent pavers with your rubber mallet. If possible, avoid raising low pavers, as the addition of setting sand to accomplish this will not be as stable as it should be.15Their pavers are filled with limestone aggregate, not the initial author's preference. Their pavers are filled with limestone aggregate, not the initial author's preference.Fill the pavers with the material you choose for this purpose. Generally, clean masonry sand or concrete sand is a good choice if no overriding conditions mandate the use of other materials.16Clean up. Sweep the sand or other fill material into the paver joints and cells with a push broom, allowing plenty of excess so all voids will be filled completely. You may use water to wash the material into the joints, especially if fine sand is used.

edit TipsA backhoe or front-end loader makes hauling the material much easier. A backhoe or front-end loader makes hauling the material much easier.Consider renting equipment for clearing or grading large areas, as this can be a back breaking task.Secure the help of friends and family members for this project if possible.

edit WarningsPavers are very heavy, and can be easily broken if handled carelessly.Pavers, such as the ones in the above pictures, frequently have gaps large enough to snare crutches, causing the injured and handicapped to fall. Don't use these types anywhere you think people might want or need to walk.

edit Things You'll NeedConstruction materials including base material, fill sand, and pavers.Tools, including shovels, rakes, a rubber mallet, and a concrete saw if cutting is necessary.Safety equipment, including gloves, safety glasses, and boots.Tools and equipment for grading, clearing, and compacting the work area.

edit Related wikiHowsHow to Install Pedestal PaversHow to Install Tactile PaversHow to Remove Fat Splashed on PaversHow to Install Permeable PaversHow to Install PaversArticles for You to WriteHere is a list of suggested articles that have not yet been written. You can help by researching and writing one of these articles. To get started writing one of these articles, click on the red link of a title below.

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Last edited:
October 25, 2010 by Anonymous

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Recent edits by: Eric, Flickety, Davjohn (see all)

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How to Play Myachi

How to Play Myachi: 8 steps (with video) - wikiHow/**/ wikiHow - The How-to Manual That You Can Edit

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Sign Up or Log In or Log In via | Help HomeArticlesCommunityMy Profile Messages: You have a new Talk Page message Edit Home / Categories / Hobbies and Crafts / Games / Backyard Games / Bag and Sack GamesHow to Play Myachi originated by:CrazyIvan, Writelf, Flickety, Eric (see all)

Article pencil Edit Discuss View HistoryTweet The Blue Dragon, a favorite Myachi for collectors The Blue Dragon, a favorite Myachi for collectors

Myachi (mee-ah-chee) is skill toy that combines the fluid motions of martial arts with the old-school fun of footbag by utilizing every part of the body except the palm of the hands; this exception provides for a lot of the fun! There are thousands of tricks to master and dozens of games you can play.

edit Steps1Choose the right Myachi for you. Myachis come in a variety of different fabrics, with some fabrics being a bit easier for beginners than others. Most beginners prefer a corduroy or micro-suede material when they first start, as these fabrics break in (soften up) quickly and have excellent grip.Check that you have some finger knugz as well. These little fabric bands come with most Myachis and are intended to slip onto your fingers. They improve your grip and provide traction for the Myachi.2Break in your Myachi. You can jam with a Myachi right away, but it will be a bit stiff when it comes out of the package. To counteract that, rub the Myachi in your hands or twist it vigorously for a few minutes.Many dedicated Myachi players break in their new sacks by wetting them or washing them with hand soap. Read Break in a hacky sack or a Myachi for more details.3Learn the basic back handed catch. The only rule in Myachi is "No Palms Allowed", so nearly every part of the body will be used, but most often, you'll be catching on the back of your hand. Start by simply tossing the sack from one backhand to the other.Maintain the proper hand position the whole time. Keep your fingers spread with about an inch (2.5cm) of space between each finger and, most importantly, keep your thumb up. This will broaden your hand and give you more surface area on which to catch the Myachi.Remember to give with it, absorbing the Myachi instead of hitting or batting it. Aim for a light catch on the back of the hand.4Learn some basic tricks. It's a good idea to use videos to teach you the basic Myachi tricks because written instructions are not as clear as visual demonstrations. Do a search on YouTube for the official Myachi channel,[1] or check out videos made by Myachi enthusiasts.Read Jam and Play With a Myachi for a start.Learn the "360". This is the one of the most basic tricks with the Myachi. Start with a single rotation, then add a second rotation. Once you're confident, try a third rotation.Learn the "Cold Fusion". Keep practicing until you have the feel for the timing that is essential to getting Cold Fusion right.Try the "Under the Leg". This move is more advanced and you'll need to be both flexible and good at judging the leg space or the Myachi risks hitting the underside of your leg.Keep learning new moves, including the "Halfpipe", the "Behind the Back", the "Trampoline", the "Daredevil", and the "Flying Clipper".5Practice often. The beauty of Myachi is that it can be played almost anywhere because it takes very little room. This means you can practice with your Myachi when you're in a waiting room, in your bedroom, standing in line, watching TV, or waiting for your turn on the XBox. Continue to practice moves even after you've learned them, to increase your speed and consistency.6Push yourself. Try to learn harder variations of the tricks you've already mastered. For example, if you've perfected the 360, it's time to start working on the 720.7Practice transitions and combos. Myachi tricks are fun, but a full-on shred with a number of tricks is a thing of beauty. To shred like the pros, you'll need to learn to combine your tricks together and move from one to another fluidly and that only comes with practice. Try practicing a series of five or six moves in the same order until you can flow between them.8Get creative! Half the fun of the game is that you can create your own tricks and combos. Just remember the only rule that applies is "No Palms Allowed".Teach your friends. Like most games, Myachi is more fun when you play with someone.

edit Video



This is a video of Myachi maniac Mantis playing Myachi in different parts of Times Square.

 edit TipsSeek advice from the experts. The web is filled with myachi forums and newsgroups, so search around a bit.Perservere! Remember that dropping is a sign of learning. Don't let the tougher tricks discourage you; keep trying until you master it.Learn the tricks in a logical order. You're going to have a lot of trouble learning an Instep 360 if you haven't already mastered an Instep Stall, a Toe 360 and a Gui, so if a trick is driving you nuts, pull back and learn each trick one piece at a time.If you end up pinching the Myachi between your fingers, move it to the back of your hand as smoothly as possible.

edit WarningsMyachi can be addictive.Some of the tricks might challenge your balance or flexibility. Use your own best judgement when trying a trick for the first time.

edit Things You'll NeedMyachiFinger Knugz (optional)

edit Related wikiHowsHow to Break in a Hacky Sack or a MyachiHow to Jam With the MyachiHow to Play Hacky SackHow to Play Hacky Sack in a GroupHow to Toe Stall a Foot Bag

edit Sources and Citations^ The Myachi Channel is found at: http://www.youtube.com/user/MyachiArticles for You to WriteHere is a list of suggested articles that have not yet been written. You can help by researching and writing one of these articles. To get started writing one of these articles, click on the red link of a title below.

How to Paint a Fabric BannerHow to Make a Balloon FlowerHow to Make a Bow Twist Body for Balloon Animals and CharactersHow to Make a Salt PaintingHow to Keep a Scrapbook of Your Favorite Books Article Info Featured Article

Last edited:
November 1, 2010 by Cam4Yeah

Categories:
Featured Articles | Bag and Sack Games

Recent edits by: Eric, Flickety, Writelf (see all)

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Write An Article Random Article Related wikiHowsBreak in a Hacky Sack or a MyachiJam With the MyachiPlay Hacky SackPlay Hacky Sack in a Group Featured ArticlesUse Your Old Jack O LanternCook for CatsAsk for a Pay RaiseDeal With Psychic Vampires Recent Changes Want to join in?

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